Granite is believed to have been formed 300 million years ago. It began as a mass of molten rock formed by volcanic activity about 11 or 12 miles below the Earth’s surface. Magma gradually rises to the surface where it began to cool and solidifies into granite. The colors are amazing and the material extremely durable. Great characteristics for countertops. Come see our granite selection in our facility in Shawnee, KS.
What Is a Granite Countertop Made Of?
Granite is crystalline and will always have tiny pits or spaces between the various mineral crystals. It’s not uniform in color or pattern, nor is it free of blemishes. Granite also contains natural fissures that appear to be cracks. They are not structural defects and will not impair durability.
Granite is composed primarily of feldspar, quartz, and mica. These minerals are what give it its various colors. The white mineral grains in granite are feldspar, our planet’s most abundant rock. The light gray, glass-like veins are quartz. The black, flake-like veins are biotite or black mica.
Granite Adds Value & Won’t Depreciate
Unlike synthetics, granite presents a surface depth that seems almost three-dimensional. Regardless of its finish, granite creates an immediate impression of elegance and is considered a definite plus on any real estate broker’s checklist.
Granite is frequently used in more applications than just kitchen countertops. It is cool to the touch, and presents an image of classic grace and beauty with its unique variations in color and veining. Each specimen is a natural work of art.
Granite Cleaning (Recommendations)
Granite can be cleaned with a mild liquid dishwashing detergent or a stone soap with warm water. Too much cleaner may leave a film or cause streaks. Rinse thoroughly and dry with a soft cloth.
Minimize soap scum by using a squeegee. A non-acidic soap scum remover or a solution of ammonia and water can also be used. Over-use of an ammonia solution may eventually dull the stone’s surface.
SCI stocks 25 granite colors. These colors are categorized in price groups 1 through 9. Our stocked granite is sold by the square foot and can be seen as a full slab in our professional showroom at 12800 Shawnee Mission Parkway in Shawnee, Kansas. We are known for Kansas city granite countertops.
If we don’t have the material color that you are looking for… it’s likely we can get it. We call it “Hand Select”.
“Hand Selects” are usually specially ordered and sold by the full slab.
Stocked Granite (Natural Stone)
Group One Granite Bushed [B]
Andino Grey
Azul Platino
Black Pearl
Black Pearl [B]
Beige Butterfly
Caledonia
Cotton White
Dallas White
Giallo Ornamental
Santa Cecilia
Silver Pearl
Group Two Granite
Lennon
Silver Cloud
Silver Wave
Snowfall
White Valley
Group Three Granite Honed [H]
Andino White
Fantasy Brown [B]
Ganache
Monte Cristo
Negressco [H]
Silver Supreme
Group Four Granite Brushed [B]
Bianco Antico
White Orion
Group Five Granite (none at this time)
White Springs [B]
Group Six Granite Leather [L]
Titanium [L]
Yukon White
Hand Select Granite (Natural Stone)
Special Orders or Discontinued Colors
Antique Ivory
Azul Celeste
Blue Flower
Colonial White
Delecatus
Giallo Veneziano
New Venetian Gold
Lapidus
River White
Rocky Mountain
Suede Brown
Uba Tuba
White Bahamas
White Mist
White Ornamental
Edge Profiles (Granite Countertops)
Eased
Beveled
Waterfall
Demi Bullnose
Full Bullnose
Chiseled
Ogee
Triple Pencil
Dupont
Advantages of Granite Countertops
Granite countertops will not depreciate with time and will continuously add value to any property where
they are installed. Unlike synthetics, granite presents a surface depth that seems almost three-dimensional. It has a luminance that’s absent from other surfaces. Regardless of its finish, granite creates an immediate impression of elegance, and is considered a definite plus on any real estate broker’s checklist.
Kansas City Granite Countertops
Granite Adds Value to Your Property: 92 (A)
Granite Color Options & Consistency: 70 (C-)
Granite is Affordable: 89 (B+)
Granite is Easy to Maintain: 90 (A-)
Granite is Durable: 98 (A+)
Granite is Resistant to Heat: 95 (A)
Granite Can Be Repaired: 80 (B-)
Contact SCI – Kansas City Granite Countertops
Come experience our beautiful show room in Shawnee, KS. We’re happy to give you a tour of our facility. If you have a quick question, feel free to give us a call. We look forward to introducing you to the quality craftsmanship of Johnson County’s top granite countertop fabricator – SCI.
Natural stone surfaces can be cleaned with a small amount of neutral cleaner, stone soap or a mild liquid dishwashing detergent and warm water.
A rag mop can be used on floors and a soft cloth for other surfaces. Too much cleaner may leave a film or cause streaks.
Do not use products that contain lemon, vinegar or other acids on any natural stone surfaces. Rinse the surface thoroughly after cleaning and dry with a soft cloth. Do not use products that contain abrasives because they may scratch the surface.
Soap scum can be minimized by using a squeegee after each use. To remove soap scum, use a non-acidic soap scum remover or a solution of ammonia and water (about 1/2 cup ammonia to a gallon of water). Frequent or over-use of an ammonia solution may eventually dull the surface of the stone.
Granite Sealing & Maintenance
Cleaning your countertops after each meal is the best recommendation for avoiding cleaning issues with your natural stone!
If a homeowner cleans their countertops after each meal, they will rarely, if ever, have staining or cleaning issues with their natural stone. Granite countertops receive additional benefit from being sealed. That benefit is the further reduction of moisture migration into an already moisture resistant surface.
Once properly sealed, the stone will be more resistant against everyday dirt and spills. Sealing is a simple process that takes no more time than cleaning. Simply wipe a small amount of sealer over the entire stone’s surface, leave it to set for a minute or two, and wipe the surface again with a clean, dry cloth to ensure the sealant is even.
SCI – Surface Center recommends using coasters under all glasses, particularly those containing alcohol or citrus juices. Many common foods and drinks contain acids that can dull the surface of natural stone. Do not place hot items directly on the stone surface. Though granite will not scorch, the heat can be harbored in the stone. We recommend always using trivets under hot dishes and placemats under china, ceramics, silver or other objects that can cause scratches.Recommended cleaning products are on display and available at our Countertop Showroom!
Granite Cleaning Recomendations for Spills & Stains
If a spill occurs on a natural stone surface, dab the spill with a towel immediately. Don’t wipe the area, it will spread the spill. Flush the area with plain water and mild soap and rinse several times. Dry the area thoroughly with a soft cloth. Repeat as necessary.
Stain Removal
Surface stains can often be removed by cleaning with an appropriate cleaning product or household chemical. Stubborn stains may require using a poultice or calling in a professional. The type of stain will determine the removal technique.
Oil-based stains such as grease, tar, cooking oil, milk, or cosmetics will typically darken the stone and will usually need to be chemically dissolved so the source of the stain can be flushed or rinsed away. Clean gently with a soft, liquid cleanser with bleach. A household detergent, ammonia, mineral spirits, or acetone will work.
Organic stains such as coffee, tea, fruit, tobacco, or food may cause a pinkish-brown stain and may disappear after the source of the stain has been removed. Outdoors, with the sources removed, normal sun and rain will generally bleach out any stains. Indoors, clean with12% hydrogen peroxide and a few drops of ammonia.
Metal stains caused by iron or rust are orange or brown in color and follow the shape of the staining object such as nails, bolts, screws, cans, flower pots, or metal furniture. Copper and bronze stains appear as green or muddy-brown and result from the moisture on, nearby, or embedded bronze, copper or brass items. Metal stains can usually be removed with a poultice (see the section on making and using a poultice). Deep-seated, rusty stains are extremely difficult to remove and the stone may be permanently stained.
Biological stains caused by algae, mildew, lichens, moss, or fungi can be removed with diluted ammonia OR bleach (1/2 cup in a gallon of water), or hydrogen peroxide. DO NOT MIX BLEACH AND AMMONIA! THIS COMBINATION CREATES A TOXIC AND LETHAL GAS!
Ink stains from magic markers or pens can be removed with bleach or hydrogen peroxide (light colored stone only!), lacquer thinner, or acetone (dark stones only!)
Paint stains; if in small amounts, can be removed with lacquer thinner or scraped off with a razorblade. Larger paint stains should be removed only with a commercial “heavy liquid” paint stripper available at hardware stores and paint centers. Do not use acids or flame tools to strip paint from stone. Paint strippers can etch the surface of the stone and re-polishing may be necessary. Use only wood or plastic scrapers for removing the sludge and curdled paint.
Water spots and rings can be buffed with dry 0000 steel wool.
Fire and smoke damage on older stones or smoke and/or fire stained fireplaces may require a thorough cleaning to restore their original appearance. Commercially available “smoke removers” may save time and effort.
Etch marks are caused by acids left on the stone’s surface. Some materials will etch the finish but not leave a stain while others will both etch and stain. Once the stain has been removed, wet the surface with water and sprinkle on marble polishing powder (available at hardware or lapidary stores). Rub the powder onto the stone with a damp cloth. Continue buffing until the etch mark disappears and the marble surface shines. Not all etch marks can be removed and a repair may need to be scheduled.
Scratches and nicks may be buffed with dry 0000 steel wool. Deeper scratches and nicks in the surface of the stone should be repaired and re-polished by a professional.
Poultices
A poultice is a liquid cleaner mixed with a white absorbent material to form a paste. The poultice should be spread over the stained area to a thickness of about 1/4 to 1/2 inch with spatula. Then covered with plastic, tape the edges down to seal it, and leave it to draw out the stain for 24 to 48 hours. After about 24 hours, remove the plastic and allow the poultice to dry. Poultice procedures may have to be repeated to thoroughly remove a stain, but some stains may never be completely removed.
Poultice materials include kaolin, fuller’s earth, whiting, diatomaceous earth, powdered chalk, white molding plaster or talc.
OIL-BASED STAINS:
Poultice with baking soda and water OR one of the powdered poultice materials and mineral spirits.
ORGANIC STAINS:
Poultice with one of the powdered poultice materials and 12% hydrogen peroxide solution (hair bleaching strength) OR use acetone instead of the hydrogen peroxide.
IRON STAINS:
Poultice with diatomaceous earth and a commercially available rust remover. Rust stains are particularly difficult to remove. You may need to call a professional.
COPPER STAINS:
Poultice with one of the powdered poultice materials and ammonia. These stains are difficult to remove. You may need to call a professional.
BIOLOGICAL STAINS:
Poultice with dilute ammonia, bleach, or hydrogen peroxide. The drying process is what pulls the stain out of the stone and into the poultice material.
Natural stone surfaces can be cleaned with a small amount of neutral cleaner, stone soap or a mild liquid dishwashing detergent and warm water.
A rag mop can be used on floors and a soft cloth for other surfaces. Too much cleaner may leave a film or cause streaks.
Do not use products that contain lemon, vinegar or other acids on any natural stone surfaces. Rinse the surface thoroughly after cleaning and dry with a soft cloth. Do not use products that contain abrasives because they may scratch the surface.
Soap scum can be minimized by using a squeegee after each use. To remove soap scum, use a non-acidic soap scum remover or a solution of ammonia and water (about 1/2 cup ammonia to a gallon of water). Frequent or over-use of an ammonia solution may eventually dull the surface of the stone.
Granite Sealing & Maintenance
Cleaning your countertops after each meal is the best recommendation for avoiding cleaning issues with your natural stone!
If a homeowner cleans their countertops after each meal, they will rarely, if ever, have staining or cleaning issues with their natural stone. Granite countertops receive additional benefit from being sealed. That benefit is the further reduction of moisture migration into an already moisture resistant surface.
Once properly sealed, the stone will be more resistant against everyday dirt and spills. Sealing is a simple process that takes no more time than cleaning. Simply wipe a small amount of sealer over the entire stone’s surface, leave it to set for a minute or two, and wipe the surface again with a clean, dry cloth to ensure the sealant is even.
SCI – Surface Center recommends using coasters under all glasses, particularly those containing alcohol or citrus juices. Many common foods and drinks contain acids that can dull the surface of natural stone. Do not place hot items directly on the stone surface. Though granite will not scorch, the heat can be harbored in the stone. We recommend always using trivets under hot dishes and placemats under china, ceramics, silver or other objects that can cause scratches.Recommended cleaning products are on display and available at our Countertop Showroom!
Granite Cleaning Recomendations for Spills & Stains
If a spill occurs on a natural stone surface, dab the spill with a towel immediately. Don’t wipe the area, it will spread the spill. Flush the area with plain water and mild soap and rinse several times. Dry the area thoroughly with a soft cloth. Repeat as necessary.
Stain Removal
Surface stains can often be removed by cleaning with an appropriate cleaning product or household chemical. Stubborn stains may require using a poultice or calling in a professional. The type of stain will determine the removal technique.
Oil-based stains such as grease, tar, cooking oil, milk, or cosmetics will typically darken the stone and will usually need to be chemically dissolved so the source of the stain can be flushed or rinsed away. Clean gently with a soft, liquid cleanser with bleach. A household detergent, ammonia, mineral spirits, or acetone will work.
Organic stains such as coffee, tea, fruit, tobacco, or food may cause a pinkish-brown stain and may disappear after the source of the stain has been removed. Outdoors, with the sources removed, normal sun and rain will generally bleach out any stains. Indoors, clean with12% hydrogen peroxide and a few drops of ammonia.
Metal stains caused by iron or rust are orange or brown in color and follow the shape of the staining object such as nails, bolts, screws, cans, flower pots, or metal furniture. Copper and bronze stains appear as green or muddy-brown and result from the moisture on, nearby, or embedded bronze, copper or brass items. Metal stains can usually be removed with a poultice (see the section on making and using a poultice). Deep-seated, rusty stains are extremely difficult to remove and the stone may be permanently stained.
Biological stains caused by algae, mildew, lichens, moss, or fungi can be removed with diluted ammonia OR bleach (1/2 cup in a gallon of water), or hydrogen peroxide. DO NOT MIX BLEACH AND AMMONIA! THIS COMBINATION CREATES A TOXIC AND LETHAL GAS!
Ink stains from magic markers or pens can be removed with bleach or hydrogen peroxide (light colored stone only!), lacquer thinner, or acetone (dark stones only!)
Paint stains; if in small amounts, can be removed with lacquer thinner or scraped off with a razorblade. Larger paint stains should be removed only with a commercial “heavy liquid” paint stripper available at hardware stores and paint centers. Do not use acids or flame tools to strip paint from stone. Paint strippers can etch the surface of the stone and re-polishing may be necessary. Use only wood or plastic scrapers for removing the sludge and curdled paint.
Water spots and rings can be buffed with dry 0000 steel wool.
Fire and smoke damage on older stones or smoke and/or fire stained fireplaces may require a thorough cleaning to restore their original appearance. Commercially available “smoke removers” may save time and effort.
Etch marks are caused by acids left on the stone’s surface. Some materials will etch the finish but not leave a stain while others will both etch and stain. Once the stain has been removed, wet the surface with water and sprinkle on marble polishing powder (available at hardware or lapidary stores). Rub the powder onto the stone with a damp cloth. Continue buffing until the etch mark disappears and the marble surface shines. Not all etch marks can be removed and a repair may need to be scheduled.
Scratches and nicks may be buffed with dry 0000 steel wool. Deeper scratches and nicks in the surface of the stone should be repaired and re-polished by a professional.
Poultices
A poultice is a liquid cleaner mixed with a white absorbent material to form a paste. The poultice should be spread over the stained area to a thickness of about 1/4 to 1/2 inch with spatula. Then covered with plastic, tape the edges down to seal it, and leave it to draw out the stain for 24 to 48 hours. After about 24 hours, remove the plastic and allow the poultice to dry. Poultice procedures may have to be repeated to thoroughly remove a stain, but some stains may never be completely removed.
Poultice materials include kaolin, fuller’s earth, whiting, diatomaceous earth, powdered chalk, white molding plaster or talc.
OIL-BASED STAINS:
Poultice with baking soda and water OR one of the powdered poultice materials and mineral spirits.
ORGANIC STAINS:
Poultice with one of the powdered poultice materials and 12% hydrogen peroxide solution (hair bleaching strength) OR use acetone instead of the hydrogen peroxide.
IRON STAINS:
Poultice with diatomaceous earth and a commercially available rust remover. Rust stains are particularly difficult to remove. You may need to call a professional.
COPPER STAINS:
Poultice with one of the powdered poultice materials and ammonia. These stains are difficult to remove. You may need to call a professional.
BIOLOGICAL STAINS:
Poultice with dilute ammonia, bleach, or hydrogen peroxide. The drying process is what pulls the stain out of the stone and into the poultice material.
Granite Cleaning Recommendations
Natural stone surfaces can be cleaned with a small amount of neutral cleaner, stone soap or a mild liquid dishwashing detergent and warm water.
A rag mop can be used on floors and a soft cloth for other surfaces. Too much cleaner may leave a film or cause streaks.
Do not use products that contain lemon, vinegar or other acids on any natural stone surfaces. Rinse the surface thoroughly after cleaning and dry with a soft cloth. Do not use products that contain abrasives because they may scratch the surface.
Soap scum can be minimized by using a squeegee after each use. To remove soap scum, use a non-acidic soap scum remover or a solution of ammonia and water (about 1/2 cup ammonia to a gallon of water). Frequent or over-use of an ammonia solution may eventually dull the surface of the stone.
Granite Sealing & Maintenance
Cleaning your countertops after each meal is the best recommendation for avoiding cleaning issues with your natural stone!
If a homeowner cleans their countertops after each meal, they will rarely, if ever, have staining or cleaning issues with their natural stone. Granite countertops receive additional benefit from being sealed. That benefit is the further reduction of moisture migration into an already moisture resistant surface.
Once properly sealed, the stone will be more resistant against everyday dirt and spills. Sealing is a simple process that takes no more time than cleaning. Simply wipe a small amount of sealer over the entire stone’s surface, leave it to set for a minute or two, and wipe the surface again with a clean, dry cloth to ensure the sealant is even.
SCI – Surface Center recommends using coasters under all glasses, particularly those containing alcohol or citrus juices. Many common foods and drinks contain acids that can dull the surface of natural stone. Do not place hot items directly on the stone surface. Though granite will not scorch, the heat can be harbored in the stone. We recommend always using trivets under hot dishes and placemats under china, ceramics, silver or other objects that can cause scratches.Recommended cleaning products are on display and available at our Countertop Showroom!
Granite Cleaning Recomendations for Spills & Stains
If a spill occurs on a natural stone surface, dab the spill with a towel immediately. Don’t wipe the area, it will spread the spill. Flush the area with plain water and mild soap and rinse several times. Dry the area thoroughly with a soft cloth. Repeat as necessary.
Stain Removal
Surface stains can often be removed by cleaning with an appropriate cleaning product or household chemical. Stubborn stains may require using a poultice or calling in a professional. The type of stain will determine the removal technique.
Oil-based stains such as grease, tar, cooking oil, milk, or cosmetics will typically darken the stone and will usually need to be chemically dissolved so the source of the stain can be flushed or rinsed away. Clean gently with a soft, liquid cleanser with bleach. A household detergent, ammonia, mineral spirits, or acetone will work.
Organic stains such as coffee, tea, fruit, tobacco, or food may cause a pinkish-brown stain and may disappear after the source of the stain has been removed. Outdoors, with the sources removed, normal sun and rain will generally bleach out any stains. Indoors, clean with12% hydrogen peroxide and a few drops of ammonia.
Metal stains caused by iron or rust are orange or brown in color and follow the shape of the staining object such as nails, bolts, screws, cans, flower pots, or metal furniture. Copper and bronze stains appear as green or muddy-brown and result from the moisture on, nearby, or embedded bronze, copper or brass items. Metal stains can usually be removed with a poultice (see the section on making and using a poultice). Deep-seated, rusty stains are extremely difficult to remove and the stone may be permanently stained.
Biological stains caused by algae, mildew, lichens, moss, or fungi can be removed with diluted ammonia OR bleach (1/2 cup in a gallon of water), or hydrogen peroxide. DO NOT MIX BLEACH AND AMMONIA! THIS COMBINATION CREATES A TOXIC AND LETHAL GAS!
Ink stains from magic markers or pens can be removed with bleach or hydrogen peroxide (light colored stone only!), lacquer thinner, or acetone (dark stones only!)
Paint stains; if in small amounts, can be removed with lacquer thinner or scraped off with a razorblade. Larger paint stains should be removed only with a commercial “heavy liquid” paint stripper available at hardware stores and paint centers. Do not use acids or flame tools to strip paint from stone. Paint strippers can etch the surface of the stone and re-polishing may be necessary. Use only wood or plastic scrapers for removing the sludge and curdled paint.
Water spots and rings can be buffed with dry 0000 steel wool.
Fire and smoke damage on older stones or smoke and/or fire stained fireplaces may require a thorough cleaning to restore their original appearance. Commercially available “smoke removers” may save time and effort.
Etch marks are caused by acids left on the stone’s surface. Some materials will etch the finish but not leave a stain while others will both etch and stain. Once the stain has been removed, wet the surface with water and sprinkle on marble polishing powder (available at hardware or lapidary stores). Rub the powder onto the stone with a damp cloth. Continue buffing until the etch mark disappears and the marble surface shines. Not all etch marks can be removed and a repair may need to be scheduled.
Scratches and nicks may be buffed with dry 0000 steel wool. Deeper scratches and nicks in the surface of the stone should be repaired and re-polished by a professional.
Poultices
A poultice is a liquid cleaner mixed with a white absorbent material to form a paste. The poultice should be spread over the stained area to a thickness of about 1/4 to 1/2 inch with spatula. Then covered with plastic, tape the edges down to seal it, and leave it to draw out the stain for 24 to 48 hours. After about 24 hours, remove the plastic and allow the poultice to dry. Poultice procedures may have to be repeated to thoroughly remove a stain, but some stains may never be completely removed.
Poultice materials include kaolin, fuller’s earth, whiting, diatomaceous earth, powdered chalk, white molding plaster or talc.
OIL-BASED STAINS:
Poultice with baking soda and water OR one of the powdered poultice materials and mineral spirits.
ORGANIC STAINS:
Poultice with one of the powdered poultice materials and 12% hydrogen peroxide solution (hair bleaching strength) OR use acetone instead of the hydrogen peroxide.
IRON STAINS:
Poultice with diatomaceous earth and a commercially available rust remover. Rust stains are particularly difficult to remove. You may need to call a professional.
COPPER STAINS:
Poultice with one of the powdered poultice materials and ammonia. These stains are difficult to remove. You may need to call a professional.
BIOLOGICAL STAINS:
Poultice with dilute ammonia, bleach, or hydrogen peroxide. The drying process is what pulls the stain out of the stone and into the poultice material.
Granite Cleaning Recommendations
Natural stone surfaces can be cleaned with a small amount of neutral cleaner, stone soap or a mild liquid dishwashing detergent and warm water.
A rag mop can be used on floors and a soft cloth for other surfaces. Too much cleaner may leave a film or cause streaks.
Do not use products that contain lemon, vinegar or other acids on any natural stone surfaces. Rinse the surface thoroughly after cleaning and dry with a soft cloth. Do not use products that contain abrasives because they may scratch the surface.
Soap scum can be minimized by using a squeegee after each use. To remove soap scum, use a non-acidic soap scum remover or a solution of ammonia and water (about 1/2 cup ammonia to a gallon of water). Frequent or over-use of an ammonia solution may eventually dull the surface of the stone.
Granite Sealing & Maintenance
Cleaning your countertops after each meal is the best recommendation for avoiding cleaning issues with your natural stone!
If a homeowner cleans their countertops after each meal, they will rarely, if ever, have staining or cleaning issues with their natural stone. Granite countertops receive additional benefit from being sealed. That benefit is the further reduction of moisture migration into an already moisture resistant surface.
Once properly sealed, the stone will be more resistant against everyday dirt and spills. Sealing is a simple process that takes no more time than cleaning. Simply wipe a small amount of sealer over the entire stone’s surface, leave it to set for a minute or two, and wipe the surface again with a clean, dry cloth to ensure the sealant is even.
SCI – Surface Center recommends using coasters under all glasses, particularly those containing alcohol or citrus juices. Many common foods and drinks contain acids that can dull the surface of natural stone. Do not place hot items directly on the stone surface. Though granite will not scorch, the heat can be harbored in the stone. We recommend always using trivets under hot dishes and placemats under china, ceramics, silver or other objects that can cause scratches.Recommended cleaning products are on display and available at our Countertop Showroom!
Granite Cleaning Recomendations for Spills & Stains
If a spill occurs on a natural stone surface, dab the spill with a towel immediately. Don’t wipe the area, it will spread the spill. Flush the area with plain water and mild soap and rinse several times. Dry the area thoroughly with a soft cloth. Repeat as necessary.
Stain Removal
Surface stains can often be removed by cleaning with an appropriate cleaning product or household chemical. Stubborn stains may require using a poultice or calling in a professional. The type of stain will determine the removal technique.
Oil-based stains such as grease, tar, cooking oil, milk, or cosmetics will typically darken the stone and will usually need to be chemically dissolved so the source of the stain can be flushed or rinsed away. Clean gently with a soft, liquid cleanser with bleach. A household detergent, ammonia, mineral spirits, or acetone will work.
Organic stains such as coffee, tea, fruit, tobacco, or food may cause a pinkish-brown stain and may disappear after the source of the stain has been removed. Outdoors, with the sources removed, normal sun and rain will generally bleach out any stains. Indoors, clean with12% hydrogen peroxide and a few drops of ammonia.
Metal stains caused by iron or rust are orange or brown in color and follow the shape of the staining object such as nails, bolts, screws, cans, flower pots, or metal furniture. Copper and bronze stains appear as green or muddy-brown and result from the moisture on, nearby, or embedded bronze, copper or brass items. Metal stains can usually be removed with a poultice (see the section on making and using a poultice). Deep-seated, rusty stains are extremely difficult to remove and the stone may be permanently stained.
Biological stains caused by algae, mildew, lichens, moss, or fungi can be removed with diluted ammonia OR bleach (1/2 cup in a gallon of water), or hydrogen peroxide. DO NOT MIX BLEACH AND AMMONIA! THIS COMBINATION CREATES A TOXIC AND LETHAL GAS!
Ink stains from magic markers or pens can be removed with bleach or hydrogen peroxide (light colored stone only!), lacquer thinner, or acetone (dark stones only!)
Paint stains; if in small amounts, can be removed with lacquer thinner or scraped off with a razorblade. Larger paint stains should be removed only with a commercial “heavy liquid” paint stripper available at hardware stores and paint centers. Do not use acids or flame tools to strip paint from stone. Paint strippers can etch the surface of the stone and re-polishing may be necessary. Use only wood or plastic scrapers for removing the sludge and curdled paint.
Water spots and rings can be buffed with dry 0000 steel wool.
Fire and smoke damage on older stones or smoke and/or fire stained fireplaces may require a thorough cleaning to restore their original appearance. Commercially available “smoke removers” may save time and effort.
Etch marks are caused by acids left on the stone’s surface. Some materials will etch the finish but not leave a stain while others will both etch and stain. Once the stain has been removed, wet the surface with water and sprinkle on marble polishing powder (available at hardware or lapidary stores). Rub the powder onto the stone with a damp cloth. Continue buffing until the etch mark disappears and the marble surface shines. Not all etch marks can be removed and a repair may need to be scheduled.
Scratches and nicks may be buffed with dry 0000 steel wool. Deeper scratches and nicks in the surface of the stone should be repaired and re-polished by a professional.
Poultices
A poultice is a liquid cleaner mixed with a white absorbent material to form a paste. The poultice should be spread over the stained area to a thickness of about 1/4 to 1/2 inch with spatula. Then covered with plastic, tape the edges down to seal it, and leave it to draw out the stain for 24 to 48 hours. After about 24 hours, remove the plastic and allow the poultice to dry. Poultice procedures may have to be repeated to thoroughly remove a stain, but some stains may never be completely removed.
Poultice materials include kaolin, fuller’s earth, whiting, diatomaceous earth, powdered chalk, white molding plaster or talc.
OIL-BASED STAINS:
Poultice with baking soda and water OR one of the powdered poultice materials and mineral spirits.
ORGANIC STAINS:
Poultice with one of the powdered poultice materials and 12% hydrogen peroxide solution (hair bleaching strength) OR use acetone instead of the hydrogen peroxide.
IRON STAINS:
Poultice with diatomaceous earth and a commercially available rust remover. Rust stains are particularly difficult to remove. You may need to call a professional.
COPPER STAINS:
Poultice with one of the powdered poultice materials and ammonia. These stains are difficult to remove. You may need to call a professional.
BIOLOGICAL STAINS:
Poultice with dilute ammonia, bleach, or hydrogen peroxide. The drying process is what pulls the stain out of the stone and into the poultice material.